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Ardmore Floor Sanding "Helpful
Hints" Frequently Asked Questions
We try to anticipate questions you might have about our procedures
and provide the answers here. If you need additional
information send email to Floorsand1@aol.com, or call us at
610 896 5152. |
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1. |
Q) I heard sanding floors is very dusty; what should I expect? |
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A) Our machines, the German Laagler Hummels, are the finest on the market. The manufacturers bill them as “dustless”, but of course sanding cannot be done without some dust. The dust from this machine is minimal for the industry. |
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2. |
Q) Are some floor procedures dustier than others? |
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A) Yes. For example, if you have parquet floors or if you are having the floors stained, there will be increased dust because more buffing will be required. |
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3. |
Q) I have some furniture and valuables that I want to protect from dust. What do you recommend I do? |
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A) Simply move these items into another part of the house and cover them with plastic. |
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4. |
Q) Is it advisable to seal off these rooms with plastic? |
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A) Yes. We do cover some framed doors with plastic when needed and practical. If you have areas of particular concern, please seal them before our crew arrives, or bring it to the attention of the office prior to the start date. |
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5. |
Q) What will be done with the debris from sanding? |
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A) We will carefully sweep and bag all of your debris and carry it to your trash site, unless other previous arrangements are made. This also pertains to carpet and wood removal. |
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6. |
Q) I am having a lot of work done in my home. At what point should I schedule sanding? |
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A) We recommend that you have sanding done toward the beginning of your remodeling, and definitely before painting or papering. Even with extreme care, the sanding or installation machines or coating brushes etc., sometimes leave marks on walls or woodwork that require some repair or touch-ups. |
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7. |
Q) Does this mean that I may have to do some touch-up after the sanding or installation is complete? |
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A) Yes. Even when sanding large areas with extreme care, touch-ups are sometimes required. |
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8. |
Q) I have pine floors. Can I have them stained? |
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A) We discourage the use of stain on pine because of its high resin content. Pine does not absorb stain as evenly as oak. |
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9. |
Q) I am having a stain applied to my floors. How do I choose stain samples? When I chose the stain from samples, will the color of my floors match the sample exactly? |
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A) You may choose stain samples from a color brochure. After your choice, we will apply the stain sample directly on your floor; however, wood is a living product. Every floor is a unique entity; therefore, it is possible that your individual floor color may deviate from the sample. Our policy is to have the customer select and approve the stain color for their personal satisfaction. Please note: after the stain dries on the floor, it will not immediately look like the sample which has urethane down. The stain will appear lighter and pale - just as an unfinished floor might appear - and often times blotchy, until urethane is applied; this is normal. The floor may not always appear exactly uniform in situations where different woods and cuts from the mill have the same color stain applied; some of the original wood color in most situations will shine through the stain. |
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10. |
Q) Do you have all stains available? |
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A) We have most stains in stock. Some stains that are less common may need to be ordered. Please note that some of the dark stains, such as Jacobean or Red Mahogany, are somewhat costlier since additional work is required. |
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11. |
Q) My floors are heavily used. Do you have any finishes that you recommend for durability? |
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A) We recommend our waterborne finish for high traffic areas such as kitchens, and for commercial use, such as dance floors and restaurants. It is more expensive, but it is also more durable, dries very quickly and does not “amber”. We do not recommend this finish on top nailed floors because the waterborne finish will cause the exposed nails to rust. |
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12. |
Q) Do I need to do anything to prepare my floors? |
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A) Please clear the area completely and remove any staples or carpet tacks. Regulate or adjust any alarms that may go off. Please remove or elevate all wires from the floors being sanded; the sanding machines may impair any wires obtrusive to the floors. |
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13. |
Q) Some of my boards are damaged. Do you replace boards? |
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A) Yes. Generally the best time to determine if boards need to be replaced is after the first sanding. Please note that there is an additional charge for board replacement. |
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14. |
Q) I just pulled up my carpet and noticed some dark stains. Will sanding remove these stains? |
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A) This depends on the particular stain. For instance, if watermarks or animal stains are very dark, they probably will not be removed by sanding. These boards need to be replaced. You can make that determination after we sand so you can see what they look like. Please bring any repairs to the attention of the salesperson prior to your scheduled date, if possible. We do not replace boards without the customer’s permission. |
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15. |
Q) My floor is nailed from the top. Is filling or punching the nails down further included in the sanding? |
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A) No. However, if there are only a few that need punching, we usually punch them if we see them. Please be aware that on a top nail floor, the nails sometimes “bleed” into the wood leaving small stains. This does not become obvious until the first coat is applied. These “bleeding” marks also show through the stain. They are part of your floor and this is considered to be normal. |
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16. |
Q) My floors have cracks and spaces between boards. Is filling the floor or steps included in the sanding price? |
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A) No. However, if it is only a small area, we generally take care of it if we feel it is appropriate, at no additional charge. Our preference is not to use filler and to stay with the natural wood look with a natural imperfection. Filler is solid without any grain and may not appear attractive. Wood expands and contracts with the dry winter and humid summer season; wood filler does not. Another reason we do not suggest filling every crack is, after a few years, because the wood and filler have different physical properties the filler will begin to pop out of its crevice and it will need attending to again to match the rest of the fillings. |
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17. |
Q) Can all floors be sanded? |
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A) Yes, as long as they are solid wood. With the precision of our German machines, even most veneers can be sanded. However, we assume that all floors are solid wood unless you have specifically advised our salesperson otherwise. |
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18. |
Q) Is moving furniture and removing carpet included in the price? |
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A) No. There is an additional charge for moving furniture and we do not assume liability for this. We have performed this service in hundreds of homes. We offer this service as labor only; we do not assume damage liability for this. Removal of carpet is extra too and should be made known to the salesperson at the time of the estimate. |
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19. |
Q) I leave for work very early. Can you begin work without someone being home? |
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A) Certainly, just inform us how we can enter the house (e.g. key with neighbor, hidden key etc.). Please make sure you communicate any information well in advance with our office. |
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20. |
Q) What time can I expect the crew to be at my home? |
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A) It varies, depending on whether we need to finish the prior day’s job. We will call you the day before with an approximate time and schedule update. If you need further information regarding your job, call 610-896-5152 after 9:30am. |
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21. |
Q) The salesperson or office gave me an estimated schedule for my work to be done. Does this ever vary? |
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A) The time frame given is approximate. It is impossible to know precisely how long your particular job will take or with the prior customer. Sometimes we are able to complete the work more quickly than anticipated. Sometimes it takes longer, or even much longer. We will make every attempt to stay on schedule. Please keep in mind that we cannot be responsible to unforeseen circumstances or acts of God (e.g. snow, employees’ illness, difficulty with the previous job etc.). We do schedule with these situations in mind and normally remain on schedule. If you ask we can call you ½ hour before arriving at your house. |
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22. |
Q) I am having work done in two stages because I cannot clear the entire area of furniture. Will the boards be uniform? |
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A) If boards run crosswise where the sanding is divided and we can stop on the edge of a board, the floor is usually uniform. If, however, the boards run lengthwise between rooms and we must stop in the middle of the boards, we will blend the two areas as much as possible. |
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23. |
Q) How long does it take for my finish to dry? |
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A) This depends on the type of finish you select, as well as weather and house conditions. Normally, our oil polyurethane takes 4 to 8 drying hours before you can walk on it. Water borne finish takes 1 to 4 drying hours before you can walk on it. Furniture can be moved back at this time on the water base. Furniture should not be moved onto oil base polyurethane finishes for two or three days. These times are only general guidelines. Please check with your salesperson for times regarding your particular finish. Keep in mind that drying times are greatly affected by humidity and heat. Air conditioning in the summer and heat in the winter will speed drying. It is your responsibility to make sure the floor is dry before using it. Please keep in mind that all finishes harden and cure with time, so care should be taken during the first 3 to 5 weeks to avoid scratching. OTHER PRECAUTIONS: We advise waiting 10 to 14 days before placing rugs on finished floors. All furniture legs should have protective pads. A free sample package is given to each customer (also sold in our showroom). Some pets with sharp toenails can damage any type of flooring. |
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24. |
Q) How long does the urethane last? |
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A) Our finishes are top quality and are very durable. They will last for many years. The exact length depends on the amount of traffic and proper cleaning. If the floor has not been waxed, only a light buffing and re-coat is usually needed. To prepare for this, we recommend cleaning your floors with Desert Sun, a cleaner available in our showroom, or an all-purpose cleaner. A free Desert Sun sample is given to each customer when your contract is completed. |
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25. |
Q) Can I wax my floors? |
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A) NO! Polyurethane and wax are not compatible. |
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26. |
Q) How should I maintain and clean my floors? |
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A) To clean them, lightly spray a dust mop with a 10 to 1 mixture of Desert Sun. If desired or needed, occasionally wipe with a damp cloth moistened with Desert Sun. We give each of our customers a free sample of floor cleaner and complete cleaning and maintenance instructions. If needed, we also have stronger cleaners available for heavier jobs. Additional products are available in our showroom. We began selling the cleaner when our customers had difficulty finding a cleaner that did not dull the floor. Our cleaner is pH neutral, has optical brighteners to heighten the sheen, and a clean fresh fragrance. If you are unable to come to our showroom, cleaner can be mailed to you for an additional charge to cover postage and handling. We help our customers maintain their floors and keep them looking beautiful by mailing a yearly “re-coat letter”, a reminder for you to examine your floors and decide if they need to be re-coated. This service is available to our customers at our cost in the months of February, March, and April. Just call if needed at this time for a free evaluation. |
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27. |
Q) Is it necessary to tip the floor mechanics? |
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A) No, however, if you feel that an outstanding job was done, a tip
would be greatly appreciated.
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28. |
Q) Do you use our electric? |
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A) Yes, we run a 220 cable from the main panel box to the area being sanded. All other machines use standard 110 electric. Ample service and wiring needs to be available for us. |
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29. |
Q) If I want more work done other than what was specified on my contract, what do I do? |
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A) All changes/additions must go through the office. Call the office to discuss changes/additions for pricing to let us inform and properly equip the mechanics. |
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